Weaving refers to the process of interlacing yarn to produce textiles and fabrics. The vertical thread is called the warp, while the horizontal thread is referred to as the weft. Warp and weft are usually laced in fixed patterns using a loom. The different ways of lacing results in varied types of weaves. A simple criss-crossing of the warp and the weft at right angles is called plain-weave. In twill-weave, the warp and weft are laced together to form a typical diagonal pattern, while four or more warp yarns are floated over the weft in the satin-weave technique. In India artisans from different places have their unique styles of weaving plain and dyed yarns, leading to a range of distinguished textiles and fabrics.
The Lepcha tribe of Sikkim traditionally used nettle yarn for weaving. Now, weaving is done mostly using wool for making colourful patterns of green, black, red etc. on a cotton base. Besides garments, bags and other accessories too are woven in the Lepcha or thara style, with a vertical loom.
Named after a community of Goa, Kunbi is woven in cotton. This weave is known for its simple checked patterns and colourful borders. The colour palette of yellow, green and red is said to be inspired from the different stages of life.
This is a special cotton and silk sari weaving technique from the Koorainadu village of Tamil Nadu. The weft and warp both include cotton and silk yarn in a ratio of 2:1. Popular as bridal wear, this chequered sari is bright and comfortable.
Made of both cotton and silk, the Kota Doria fabric is known for its light-weight. This fabric has squares of different sizes called khats woven all over its body. The proportion of cotton is more than silk in this fabric.
In Varanasi, Kimkhab is woven using the durable Mukta silk, brocaded with gold and silver threads. The product is a heavy fabric primarily used for furnishing.
Kani is a very difficult technique used mostly for weaving Pashmina shawls. Here, the colourful weft threads are woven using wooden spools called toji on the warp threads to form intricate patterns.
The Kanchipuram silk saris are known for their colour and lustre. They are woven with extra warp and weft to produce the desired design and patterns using a device called adai. The borders are heavily brocaded in contrast colours.
This weave uses supplementary weft besides the standard warp and weft threads. The supplementary weft is used for producing detailed patterns. Jamdani technique is used for making cotton saris, scarves etc.
It is a brocaded fabric made of cotton warp and silk weft. Beautiful patterns with the silk weft are made using a device called Jala during weaving.
Woven delicately with a silk warp and cotton weft, Chanderi has borders of zari. The fabric is airy and has a sheen.
Baluchari weave gets its name from the village of Baluchar in Murshidabad, where it was originally produced. The Baluchari Sarees have intricate work on their pallus. The patterns to be woven are first drawn on paper and then punched into the sarees. These motifs are mostly woven on silk and traditionally the jala loom was used for the purpose.
Bomkai is produced in ikat style using both cotton and silk. The Jala technique is employed to make the designs on the fabric. Jala is a frame on which the designers first make the designs using threads and then the final weave takes place on a pit loom.