Government of IndiaWeaving
Weaving refers to the process of interlacing yarn to produce textiles and fabrics. The vertical thread is called the warp, while the horizontal thread is referred to as the weft. Warp and weft are usually laced in fixed patterns using a loom. The different ways of lacing results in varied types of weaves. A simple criss-crossing of the warp and the weft at right angles is called plain-weave. In twill-weave, the warp and weft are laced together to form a typical diagonal pattern, while four or more warp yarns are floated over the weft in the satin-weave technique. In India artisans from different places have their unique styles of weaving plain and dyed yarns, leading to a range of distinguished textiles and fabrics.
Kandagi Weave, Tamil Nadu
The speciality of the Kandagi weave is that before the weaving begins the yarn is soaked in water. The wet yarn is believed to be the source of strength for this Saree. During the weaving process the weavers regularly keep checking for broken yarns and mend them manually.
Sambalpuri Weave, Odisha
The Sambalpuri Saree is produced using the Ikkat or bandh kala technique, where the yarn is dyed before the weaving process begins. Once the dyeing process is complete the yarn is taken for weaving. In accordance with the coloured warp or weft, the artisans weave a range of patterns that depict birds, wheels, flowers etc.
Paithani Weave, Maharashtra
Paithani Saree is woven in the tapestry technique. Numerous spindles are used in the production of a Paithani Saree that has designs created with inlaid zari. This is also referred to as Minakari. The beautiful borders and pallavs are produced through a process of interlocked weft technique with extra warp threads for creating fine patterns.
Ilkal Weave, Karnataka
Ilkal is a particular weave used for producing beautiful sarees of pure silk or silk blended with cotton. The distinct feature of this weave is the joining of the body warp with the warp of the pallav that are woven separately in contrast colours. The technique is locally called Tope Teni, while the loom is known as Kuni Magga.
Weave for Kinnauri Shawls, Himachal Pradesh
The body of the Kinnauri shawl is made using a basic weave, while for the designs extra weft technique is employed. The weavers make use of the knotting method to produce the designs on the shawls, in which the weft threads are inserted manually at required intervals.
Tangaliya Weave, Gujarat
Tangaliya shawl is woven in the plain weave technique with extra weft threads for creating designs on the shawl. The speciality of the Tangaliya weave is the small dots (daana) used for making patterns on the fabric. Particular warp threads are selected around which small lengths of threads are twisted according to the required design.
Gadu or Mirijim weave, Assam
Made of cotton, the Gadu is a handwoven blanket, fluffy on one side and plain on the other. Spun yarn is rolled carefully to form the warp of the blanket. For creating the fluffy texture, the rolled threads are cut into lengths of about 3 inches and then inserted with the weft at regular intervals.
Venkatagiri Weave, Andhra Pradesh
Venkatagiri sarees are woven on traditional pit looms, The specialty of the saree is its combination of zari and cotton threads brought together with the Jamdani type of weaving. The borders of the Sarees are golden, and the Patti or designs on it are woven with high-quality muslin to produce a striped pattern.
Puan weave, Mizoram
Puans are traditional clothing worn by both men and women in Mizoram. The term Puan literally means ‘cloth,’ and is woven usually in loin looms by women. Here the loom is fixed to the body of the weaver by a backstrap. Different motifs like stars and flowers are woven on the Puan.
Patola weave, Gujarat
This is a plain weave in double ikat technique using a horizontal, tilted loom. Double ikat implies dyeing both the warp and weft yarn beforehand and then weaving afterwards to create colorful patterns. Patola technique is used primarily to weave sarees.
Panja Weave, Haryana
Named after a claw-like tool to set the warp threads, the Panja weave is mostly used to make durries or rugs. The warp is almost always cotton, while the weft can be both cotton and wool. The panja tool is used to beat the weft threads to set it tightly in the warp.
Mashru weave, Gujarat
Mashru is a mixed silk and cotton fabric. It is made of silk warp and cotton weft arranged in Satin weave. The silk warp goes above the cotton weft 5-8 times, but only once under it, making the exterior shiny and interior comfortable.
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