Government of IndiaDyeing
Dyeing is a process of colouring a textile or a fabric material by applying dye on its surface. Generally, dyeing is done by dissolving a dye in water and dipping the fabric in this solution many times to fix the color. Dyes differ in their resistance to sunlight, washing, gas, alkalies and other agents. It also depends on their affinity for different fibers, reaction to different cleaning agents and methods. Dyes are mainly of two types- natural and synthetic. Natural dyes are mostly obtained from flowers, fruits, leaves, vegetables as well as from animals and minerals. The success of the dyeing depends on the type of dye selected for a particular piece of fabric.
Bandha, Odisha
The ikat textiles produced in Odisha are called bandhas. Bandhas are characterized by curved forms with hazy outlines as only one set of yarns in the fabric are tie-dyed.
Telia Rumal, Andhra Pradesh
This traditional ikat textile is produced in a coastal village named Chirala. The commonly used colours for this handkerchief are terracotta red and black, using natural dyes. The fabrics are treated with iron solution and alum so that on dyeing with alizarine, areas with iron would become deep black and the ones with alum turn red.
Patola, Gujarat
Patola are made using the double ikat weaving tradition. The design of Patola fabric is planned very carefully as both warp and weft yarns are tie-dyed repeatedly to introduce more than one colour. Once the yarns are tie-dyed, the warp and weft are woven in plain weave.
Ikat, Gujarat,Odisha Andhra Pradesh, Telangana
Ikat is a yarn resist technique where the yarns are tie-dyed, and on weaving a pattern is created on the surface of the fabric. An ikat textile can be recognized from the typical hazy patterns on fabric due to the resist dyeing of the yarns prior to weaving.
Ikat has three categories-Single ikat, double ikat and combined ikat.
Piliya, Rajasthan
Piliya is the traditional odhani (chunri) in red and yellow. It is an important part of the costume for young mothers. These textiles are dyed with turmeric to impart properties of anti-inflammation. A typical piliya is largely yellow in colour with red appearing in borders.
Lehariya, Rajasthan
It’s a type of tie-dye method practiced in Rajasthan. It creates diagonal stripes that enhance the effect of the print. This technique gets its name from the Rajasthani word for wave, as it often produces complex wave patterns. Lehariya dyeing is done on thin cotton or silk cloth, mostly for dupatta, turbans and sarees.
Bandhej, Rajasthan
Bandhej is a type of tie-dye method. It’s similar to bandhani of Gujarat in terms of production process. Besides the fine resist dots, bandhej includes shapes of tiny boxes called dabbi, sweetmeats termed laddu and cowrie cells named kori. This type of tie-dye done on fine cotton and silk are used as odhani for women, turban cloth for men and stitched into garments like skirt and bodice.
Chandrokhani, Gujarat
This is a popular type of bandhani textile made mostly for Muslim brides, in red and black colours. It has a big medallion in the centre surrounded by four smaller medallions and wide borders. Motifs created with small tie dye dots are small paisleys, zig zag lines, sunflowers, etc.
Gharchola, Gujarat
This is a popular type of bandhani textile, also known as gharchola. It is a traditional dress for Hindu brides. The tie-dyed textile in cotton or silk is red in colour and the layout is a checkerboard created with woven gold threads. Each square within the check contains a different tie-dye motif like dancing ladies, parrots, elephants, peacocks and geometric forms.
Bandhani, Gujarat
Bandhani, derived from the word ‘bandha,’ meaning ‘to tie’, is a type of tie-dye method practiced in Gujarat. It’s popular for its fine resist dots and intricate designs. Traditionally, bandhani is done on silk, cotton and wool. The motifs created by outlining with tiny dots are animal and human figures, flowers, plants and trees.
Tie and Dye, Gujarat, Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, Tamil Nadu
Tie-dye method is a type of resist dyeing in which many small portions of the fabric are plucked and tied tightly with string before immersing the cloth in the dye-bath. The dye does not penetrate the tied part. Once dyeing is done, the fabric is untied to reveal an interesting pattern.
Resist dyeing, Gujarat, Rajasthan
Resist dyeing is a technique of colouring yarn or fabric in order to create a pattern by resisting certain areas, so that only the unblocked areas receive colours. Resist materials including thread, wax, rice or mud paste are used in this dyeing process on the basis of the patterns. Tie-dye method is a type of resist dyeing.
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