Lucknow: Food Fit for the Kings

Food in Lucknow, the “City of Nawabs”, is a sensory experience that every foodie deserves. The Kebabs, Biryani, Nihari and the desserts of the city are deeply embedded in the history of this city and now define the culinary experience of the place. The food ties beautifully with the soul of the city and one is indeed incomplete without the other.

Lucknow lies in the Awadh region of the Gangetic belt. It was established as a subah under the well-known Mughal ruler Akbar in the 16^th century CE. In 1722 CE, it got its first Nawab, Burhan-ul-Mulk Sa’adat Ali Khan, who was originally from Nishapur, (Safavid) Persia. This laid down the foundations of a regal culture patronized by a series of Nawabs with exquisite taste and sophistication. Sa’adat Ali Khan developed the Awadh region and established his first capital at Faizabad. It was Asaf-ud-Daula (1775- 1797 CE) who moved the capital to Lucknow in 1775 CE.

Under the rule of the Nawabs, patronage was extended to a variety of arts including literature, architecture, sculpture and painting. The period also witnessed major innovations in the royal kitchens which developed a unique blend of local, Mughlai and Persian flavors that the city holds dear to date. These once regal dishes are now also served in the streets locally and are revered by children, students, adults and tourists alike.

The people of Lucknow have reserved a special place in their hearts for tea. It is at one instance a social activity and at another, an almost routine compulsion. The go-to place for a steaming cup of tea and a snack of Bun-maska or Samosa is Sharma ji ki Chai in Hazratgunj. Served in earthen cups, this beverage is so addictive that it has earned the local name of “opium tea”! It is perfectly complimented with a side of lightly toasted soft golden bun with a layer of butter in the middle. Those looking to beat the heat can opt for Thandai at Pandit Raja’s shop which is the oldest shop of Lucknow serving this beverage. Situated at Kamla Nehru Marg, Chowk, it specially mixes cashews, almonds, saffron, pistachios and cardamom with chilled milk to refresh both the body and the mind.

One of the most exciting foods of the city is undoubtedly the luxurious Kebabs. Tunday-ke-kebabs are well known in regions beyond Uttar Pradesh for their “melt in the mouth” and smooth texture. Tunday literally means “a person with a hand disability”. The phrase indicates the person (shop) and not a specific type of Kebab as is the common misconception. Tunday Kebabi was set up in the Chowk market in 1905 by Haji Murad Ali who lost his arm after falling from the terrace while flying a kite, thereby earning the said nickname. His specialty was the Galauti-kebabs. The now 110-year-old shop still sells them to the keenly waiting locals. Very interestingly, the history of these Kebabs can be traced back to the 17^th century. As age caught up with the then reigning Nawab of Lucknow, Asaf-ud-Daula, he began to lose teeth. His palette, however, was too used to the taste of Kebabs. Therefore, he declared royal patronage to whoever could craft a special Kebab that did not require chewing.

Thus, the Galauti-kebabs were born. The history of the Kebabs took a turn from being coarse and chewy to melt in the mouth ones bursting with flavor. More than 160 spices are rumored to be mixed in the meat before it is made into a paste and cooked. It is best complimented by the unique Roomali-roti literally meaning “handkerchief bread” due to its paper-thin quality. Made with flour and water, it is cooked in 3 to 4 seconds over the curved underside of a kadhai (pan), just in time for the Kebabs which fly out of the shop within minutes! Apart from Galauti, Boti-kebabs are another local favorite. Pieces of meat, traditionally mutton, but also chicken or lamb are marinated in yogurt, ginger, garlic, chillis and other secret ingredients, and are put on skewers to cook over charcoal flames. As they cook, they become tender and gain an unparalleled smoky flavor. Other varieties include Kakori-kebabs, Shammi-kebabs, Seekh-kebabs and many local variations.

Before coming to the main course, one cannot ignore the spectacular Chaat of Lucknow. While Chaat is mostly available throughout India, the Chaat of Lucknow is unique in that it is served in an edible basket made of potatoes. The Basket-chaat at Royal Café in Hazratgunj is known to every person in town due to its lip-smacking flavor and complex texture. It is stuffed with mashed potato Tikkis, peas, Namkeens, and topped with spicy and tangy sauces along with hung curd to balance the heat. Another famous Chaat place that brings back waves of nostalgia to anyone who has an association with Lucknow is the Shukla Chaat House in Hazratganj. It sells out Paani-ke-batashe which are deep-fried hollow crepes of atta (flour) with a stuffing of peas and potatoes with sour or sweet and tangy water. It also gives Mattar-chaat and Aloo-chaat topped with onions and lemon juice which keeps one going back for more. Peas and potatoes are mashed so that they release their flavor, deep-fried and mixed with vegetables with various spices for the crunchiest bite. This is topped with handpicked fresh herbs to add a degree of freshness.

The main course in Lucknawi cuisine includes the timeless favorite Biryani. Idris ki Biryani at the Chowk market or Awadhi-Biryani at Wahid’s Biryani are the local staples and for good reason. This divine dish is prepared using juicy pieces of marinated mutton or chicken and long-grained rice. Both are cooked separately for some time and then layered together and cooked in Dum fashion. The meat becomes succulent and falls off the bone with the slightest touch. The long grains of the rice grab on to the aroma of the spices and perfectly compliment the meat. Awadhi-Biryani is uniquely cooked with large amounts of ghee or clarified butter and uses khade or whole spices. It is characterized by an earthy delicate flavor and a strong mouth-watering aroma which makes it hard to resist. Unlike the Kolkata-Biryani or the Hyderabadi-Biryani, it neither includes eggs and potatoes nor too many spices but focusses on the natural flavors of the meat.

Another unique dish from Lucknow is the Kulche-nihari best experienced at Rahim’s in the Chowk market. Most people consider a Lucknawi food tour incomplete without this. Tender pieces of meat are rubbed with traditional Indian spices and slow-braised overnight. This stew has the most delicate meat which is almost impossible to serve without it falling off the bone. Some seasoned eaters even prefer the meat to mix completely with the stew till it’s of thick homogenous consistency. It is then relished with kulchas, or freshly baked tandoori bread.

Yet another Nawabi delicacy is the Khasta-kachori, a popular breakfast dish from Ratti Lal’s shop in Aminabad, Lucknow. Deep-fried flour bread is served with spicy chickpea Subzi (vegetable) topped with fresh onions and two pieces of Mirchi aloo, or dry spicy potatoes. Its sheer deliciousness provides a good reason to wake up early every morning!

The Nawabs mostly had a sweet tooth and Lucknow embodies this sentiment. Apart from a high dose of sugar in their tea, the Lucknow-wasis (inhabitants) have a variety of desserts to be proud of. A popular menu item which disguises as the main course, as well as a dessert, is the famous Sheermal, a sweet Naan bread made with flour, milk and yeast. This flatbread is had with tea, as well as with some Kebabs to balance the spice levels.

Capturing the essence of the city in a bite is the Shahi-tukda dessert or bread pudding made with toasted bread, condensed milk, sugar syrup and dry fruits sprinkled on top. This milky and creamy dessert is luxury at its best. It is available in Aminabad as well as at the Chowk market of Lucknow. Another dessert peculiar to Lucknow in general and the Lucknow winters, in particular, is the Makhan-malai or the Nimish. Delightfully fluffy, creamy and rich, it melts and vanishes once it reaches the mouth. It is, in fact, so delicate that the summer sun melts it altogether! Hence, it is prepared only during the winters. It is made with cow milk, flavored with saffron and rose water and is topped with Khoya or dried evaporated milk solids along with a real silver leaf. Several stalls in the Chowk area serve this post-sunset till about 9:00 pm in the night during the cold weather. This dish traces its origin back to Persia, wherefrom the first Nawab of Awadh hailed. It was prepared with milk (whipped with saffron) which was left outside through the night to collect the flavor of the dew. Savouring this dish feels like taking a bite out of the clouds above!

The hot summer evenings call for a serving of the popular Faluda-kulfi, particularly of the Prakash Kulfi House in Aminabad. Kulfi is a traditional ice-cream made with slowly simmered whole milk to which spices and herbs like rose water, saffron and pistachio are added. This is complemented by thin vermicelli noodles which help in cleansing the palate.

A Lucknawi meal is incomplete without the city’s famous Paan called Malai-paan or Balai-ki-gilori from the 1800s! Instead of the normal betel leaf commonly Paan found in the rest of the country, this special Paan uses Malai as a cover for the ingredients. Malai, a type of clotted cream is beaten till it becomes paper-thin and then stuffed with various dried fruits, sugar crystals (Mishri) and rose water. All this is finally wrapped in real edible silver. The story of origin of this delicacy is just as rich as its taste. It was made for the Nawab of Lucknow when he was asked to reduce his tobacco intake due to medical reasons. Now, due to the blossoming street food culture, locals can enjoy this delicacy throughout the year.

Awadhi cuisine, as a whole, is a beautiful blend of complex spices, blissful aromas, age-old delicacies and secret recipes, flavoured with a royal touch.