The Enchanting Flavours of Kolkata

The traditional culinary heritage of Bengal finds its roots in two things: Bengal’s remarkable fertile land and the rivers that provide an abundance of resources to the state. Given the extraordinary paddy cultivation and the variety of fishes found aplenty in this region, rice and fish curry is Bengal’s staple food. One of the first genres of Bengali texts, the Charyapadas describe means of livelihood such as fishing and hunting and also food crops like sugarcane and rice.

Bengali food is a culinary art that has evolved with time. The state’s capital Kolkata, formerly known as Calcutta, is celebrated for its grand colonial architecture, rich cultural heritage and unique character. Located alongside the Hooghly river, the city is known to be India's capital under the British Raj (1772-1911). As a trading post for the East India Company, the city saw a huge influx of communities and their accompanying cultures around the mid-eighteenth century. This, amongst other things, imparted the character to the street food of Kolkata, that we see today. The texture and flavour of the food cater to a wide range of taste buds: hot and spicy, minty, sweet and creamy, sweet and sour.

This amalgamation of rich and vibrant flavours is similar to the city itself and is reflected in a myriad of munchies, snacks and sweets. Puchka, Jhalmuri and Ghughni are some of the most well-known dishes. The legend of the invention of Puchka is quite interesting. The lore associated with the epic Mahabharata goes as follows. The new bride Draupadi (wife of the Pandavas) was given a task by her mother-in-law, Kunti, to test her culinary skills. Kunti gave Draupadi some leftover vegetables and wheat flour to prepare a meal to satisfy the hunger of all her sons. It is then that Draupadi made an early rendition of Puchka from these ingredients. Puchkas, as found today, are light and hollow semolina balls, served with mashed potato and water with different flavours. More or less identical to the Pani-puri, Golgappas and Paani-batashas found in other parts of the country, Puchkas have a unique flavour. What gives Puchkas their distinct flavour is the spicing of the water. Sweet, sour, spicy or minty, the thelawala has it all. The crunchy semolina filled with soft mashed potato inside combined with the tangy taste of tamarind is a perfect addition to an evening stroll on the streets of Kolkata.

Jhalmuri despite its stern-sounding name, Jhal (spicy) – Muri (puffed rice) is a happy blend of sour and spicy. Served in a paper cone called Thonga, the main ingredients in this dish are puffed rice mixed with spicy chickpea (Chana chur), Sev-puri-namkeen, onion, chilli and tomato. Given the ease with which it is prepared and the range of flavours that it encapsulates, Jhalmuri is almost a staple of the streets of Kolkata. Even though the elements are similar to Mumbai’s famous bhelpuri, Jhalmuri is dry and crispier. Triangular park is one of the best-known places to serve this delicious snack.

Similar to the Chaat served in various parts of the country, Ghughni is placed specifically in Bengal. Made of flavoured and boiled Chickpea with a garnish of onion, coriander, chillies and tamarind juice, the dish can be had with the Bengali Luchi (deep-fried flatbread) or on its own too.

A unique street culinary experience in Bengal is the Mocha chop or banana blossom cutlet. The banana blossom is chopped and mixed with a little mashed potato which is then coated with spiced breadcrumbs and fried. The sweet and tangy flavour of the Mocha blends beautifully with the crunchy breadcrumbs.

A similar mixture is used to make Macher chop or fish cutlet, which is another popular street food in Bengal. Often served with Muri (puffed rice) and green chilli, the fish cutlet is prepared using finely minced fish with a similar mixture as the Mocha chop. Yet, the flavours that the soft layered meat provide inside the crispy exterior is distinct. Kalika in college square can be paid a visit for relishing this delicacy.

The Bengali word Tele-bhaja literally translates to “fried in oil.” This deep-fried snack is similar to the variants of Pakoras spread across the Indian subcontinent. Here, assorted vegetables or meat are deep-fried in a batter made of Besan and some spices. These crunchy delights are an ideal companion to the evening tea. Vardhaan street, Camac street and Russel street are lined with small shops serving fresh and hot Bhajas.

The streets of Kolkata provide rich variants for full meals as well. These include, the Luchi, Mughlai-parantha as well as a variety of rolls. Popularly served in Bengal, Assam and Orissa, Luchi is a deep-fried flatbread. It is prepared by kneading a dough from all-purpose wheat flour. The dough is then rolled out into multiple small round flat breads and deep-fried in ghee. Often seen as a variant of Puri, the use of ghee rather than oil in cooking gives a unique flavour to the Luchi. Instead of the brown crust of a Puri, Luchi has a beautiful golden-white colour to it. In Bengali as well as Bangladeshi cuisine, Luchi is accompanied by Aloo-sabji (potato dish) or Mangsho (meat curry).

The story behind the Mughlai-paratha pertains to the era of Mughal emperor Jahangir. It is said that Jahangir was bored of eating the usual Paratha and Keema (minced meat). Thus, the ruler’s head chef, belonging to Bengal, creatively came up with the Mughlai-paratha. The Mughlai-paratha is essentially a crispy deep-fried egg paratha loaded with spiced chunks of chicken or mutton.

Stories place the birth of rolls during the colonial period in India. It is said that the Englishmen while eating Kebabs did not want to use their hands. Thus, the Nizam ordered the Kebab to be wrapped by a Naan (flatbread) before being served. Thus, was born the roll. Though there is no historical data that confirms this story, different types of rolls have become very popular across India. Kolkata serves the famous egg roll which is made of an egg cracked on a hot flatbread while it is still on the Tawa. The roll is then filled with assorted vegetables and spices to give it more flavour. An addition of diced chicken Kebab or mutton Kebab is a non-vegetarian touch to the egg roll. Nizams at Hogg street is known to serve the best rolls in Kolkata.

Apart from these street foods, Kolkata houses India’s largest Chinatown known for its delicious and authentic Chinese cuisine as well.

Kolkata’s Own China Town

Tangra and Tiretti Bazaar are the two thriving Chinatowns in the city of Kolkata. It is said that the Chinese, on the invitation of the British, came to Kolkata to set up sugar mills in Achipur during the late 18th century. The sidewalks of their settlements are lined with makeshift tables serving pork dumplings, prawn Baos, and fish ball soup among other authentic Chinese cuisines. Eau Chew, one of the oldest Chinese restaurants, dating back to 1920, serves a unique “chimney soup” kept on glowing charcoal along with steamed fish in soya sauce.

The overwhelming and diverse variety that the city shows in its snacks is also replicated in its sweets. Chhanar Jilipi, translating to cottage cheese Jalebi, is a Bengali variant of Jalebi. Similar in appearance, Jilipi is softer and thicker with a punch of fresh and sweet syrup. Desserts also include a variety of unique combinations such as Aam-paped and Gur. During the winter season, west Bengal sees the extraction of date palm jaggery or Nolen gur (new jaggery). This is thus a season for freshly prepared Nolen-gur sweets. These include Mishti-doi (sweet curd), Paaesh (variant of kheer) and Sandesh. The subtle switch from sugar to jaggery in these sweets creates a huge difference in the flavours. The Notun bazar neighbourhood in North Kolkata houses Makhan Lal Das & Sons, known for serving delicious sweets since 1830.

The streets of Kolkata are lined with a diversity of flavours. From the Flury’s Tea Room  to Nizam’s rolls, Kolkata’s culinary feast tingles every taste bud exclusively.