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TATTOO TRADITIONS
Baigas in Dindori District, Madhya Pradesh

The concept of permanence is borne out of a need to be remembered, to leave behind a legacy, and become a memory that is not only irreplaceable but also handed down through the generations. This need for perpetuity has taken on different forms of interpretation, especially among members of indigenous communities. In fact, this concept has manifested itself through the tradition of inking bodies in some parts of India. The prevalence of such a unique tradition, which is a testament to the evolving nature of our intangible cultural heritage, is prominent amongst the ethnic groups in India.

Baiga woman with godna motif tattoos

The art of tattooing is known as Godna in Central India and is practised by ethnic communities like the Gond, Baiga and Korku among others. The Baigas are an ethnic group that are semi-nomadic and inhabit the forests around Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh in Central India. The Baiga community reside in the Baiga Chak area of Dindori district of Madhya Pradesh. The Baigas are known for their intricate and symbolic tattoos, which epitomise the essence of the Baiga identity.

Interestingly, in this community, inking bodies with specific motifs is not only a form of body decoration but has several other connotations attached to it. For the Baiga, these are not just tattoos but also symbols that have an association with the identity, wealth, and pride of Baiga women. The Baiga tattoo artists, specifically women, are called Godharins or Badnins. Baiga women are known to be heavily tattooed and wear their tattoos with pride, with the first tattoo made at the age of 7-8. The time of godna in every Baiga female’s life corresponds to her specific age and each tattoo is symbolic of the girl gradually becoming eligible to get married and bear children.

Baiga woman with godna motif tattoos

The tattoo motifs also symbolise wealth. The materialistic concept of metallic jewellery is not accepted by the Baigas; rather, it is the tattoos that act as a form of eternal wealth and are a sign of eligibility for them. The first motif to be tattooed is a V-shaped hearth on the forehead, known as Seeta Rasoi at the age of eight, followed by Pukhda Godai on the back at sixteen. This is followed by tattoos on the thighs (Jhaang Godai) which is mandatory before marriage. The other tattoos are inked after the tattoos on the thighs dry up. This tattoo is followed by the inking of the back of the thighs (Pachadi Godai), chest (Chhati Godai) and ends with the forearm (Pori Godai). Baiga women continue getting tattooed till the age of 25. The design and significance of the motifs correspond to the nature and the surroundings of the Baiga habitat.

Even though godna is a revered tradition among members of the Baiga community, a gradual decline in its practice is being seen. With the community members making a foray into the cities, urbanisation is changing the orientation of the members of this community especially the Baiga women who find themselves at the crossroads of this pivotal change. In fact, the Godharins or women tattoo artists have transferred the tattoo motifs from their skin to cloth, walls, and even canvas, thus adapting to the changing times.

Folk traditions are precious and need to be adequately preserved before they become extinct. Godna is associated with the notion of beauty for the Baigas and this tradition must therefore be preserved well so that future members of this community can have enduring access to this cultural practice.