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Mayong: Land of the Occult

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View of the Brahmaputra river from Mayong. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons

The idea of dark arts, or what people refer to as “black magic”, creates a sense of intrigue and fear in people's minds. There has been a long history of spells, potions, witches, and wizards worldwide, and India is no exception. Mayong or Mayang, a secluded village on the bank of the river Brahmaputra in Assam, is referred to as the “Land of the Occult.” Known for its magical practices and sorcery traditions, the village is regarded as the “Black Magic Capital” of India. The mystery of Mayong is associated with sinister tales of men disappearing into thin air, people transformed into animals, and ghosts and spirits magically tamed. Although this part of the world is rich in folklore and tales, the occult practices of Mayong aren’t just whispered myths and legends.

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Woman practicing magic rituals in Mayong. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons

The genesis of the name ‘Mayong’ is subject to widespread speculation. Some believe it originated from the Sanskrit word Maya, which means illusion, while others claim it comes from the Dimasa word ‘Miyong’, which means elephant. According to a legend in the manuscript Bongsawali Goid, Sunyat Singha from Maibong founded Mayong's kingdom in 1624 A.D. Mayong still has a traditional king. Although he does not possess a monarch's power and authority, he is a revered figure in the society. There is mention of Mayong not only in Assamese folklore but also in ancient Hindu texts such as the Mahabharata. It is believed that Bheema’s son Ghatotkacha took part in the battle of Mahabharata after attaining magical powers from Mayong.

Mayong has been associated with magic since time immemorial. Along with farming and craftsmanship skills, the secrets of sorcery and black magic were also passed down to future generations. The “magicians” of Mayong are called Oja or Bez. The magic used by the bez for healing others is the good tantra or Su Mantra, while the magic used for harming others is the evil tantra or Ku Mantra. The Bez is expected to be familiar with both mantras. Nowadays, magic is mostly used for treating diseases in people. From minor ailments like back aches to serious diseases like pneumonia and measles, these Ojas claim to possess the cure for all. Some of them also claim to have expertise in the art of exorcism.

Although black magic is seldom used today, many incidents from the past depict the village as a frightening place. One of the most interesting legends still remembered relates to 1337 CE when Emperor Muhammad Shah sent 100,000 well-equipped horsemen to invade the Ahom kingdom in Assam, the entire army is said to have perished in the forests of Mayong. It is believed that even the Mughals feared the land of Mayong. It is recorded in the Alamgir Nama that when Aurangzeb ordered the Mughal General Raja Ram Singh to subdue the Ahom kingdom, he is said to have been hesitant to do so. As much as he feared the Ahom army, he was more afraid of the obscure witchcraft that existed in Mayong. As anticipated, Ram Singh was defeated mercilessly and barely made it out alive.

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Mantra Puthi (Manuscript) in Mayong. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons

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Sculpture in Mayong Museum. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons

There is no doubt that the idea and use of black magic has evolved in Mayong and seen significant changes too. Interestingly, the Mayong Central Museum and Emporium of Black Magic and Witchcraft conserves the relics of traditional magic practices. The museum displays a variety of artefacts, including magical remnants, weapons, manuscripts, and jewellery made from bones.

Unfortunately, with only a few practitioners of the craft today and the world increasingly turning to modern techniques, Mayong's legendary magical traditions may soon disappear into obscurity.