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Exploring Heritage Through Clothing: Jaintia Traditional Attire
Pnar boy & girl from Jaintia Hills in their traditional dress Image Source: Sakani Kyndiah & Salanda-o Langdoh
The Pnar, also recognized as Jaiñtia, form a distinct subset among the Khasi community residing in Meghalaya. The Pnar language, spoken by this group, is a member of the Austro-Asiatic language family and shares notable similarities with the Khasi language. Hailing from the West Jaintia Hills and East Jaintia Hills Districts of Meghalaya, India, the Pnar people refer to themselves as ‘Ki Khun HynñiewTrep’ (Children of 7-hut).
Emerging from the historical Jaintia Kingdom governed by the Syntengs, the term "Jaiñtia" potentially finds its origins in the shrine of Jayanti Devi or Jainteswari, a manifestation of the Hindu goddess Durga. The Pnar, much like other sub-tribes of the Khasi community, do not possess a documented history, although references to them can be found in Assam's Buranji records and British historical documents.
Pnar Community from Jaintia Hills in their traditional dress. Image Source: Raul Manner
The Jaintia people stand out for their unique heritage, which is beautifully reflected in their traditional attire. The Jaintia traditional attire is more than just a way of dressing; it's a living testament to their history, values, and cultural identity. Central to Jaintia traditional attire lies the 'jainpein,' a distinctive dress donned by women. The jainpein is a cotton cloth enveloping the body, akin to a wrap-around skirt, secured at the waist with a belt and often paired with a blouse. An essential component for women is the 'Kyrshah muka,' a sleeveless blouse worn with the jainpein, typically featuring intricate embroidery, beads, and ornamental elements. The kyrshah's design and embellishments differ, showcasing the wearer's creativity. During festive seasons, Jaintia women commonly wear wrap-around skirts like Ryndia, Khyrwang, and Thoh Saru, primarily crafted from Eri silk. Another unique adornment specific to the Khasi and Jaintia tribes is the KynjriKsiar, a 24-carat gold pendant worn by women during festivals and special occasions.
Regarding the men of Meghalaya, the conventional clothing of the Khasi and Jaintia tribes shares common features. Their traditional garments encompass an unsewn fabric draped around the waist, with a dhoti that is paired with an embroidered or adorned shirt/coat. During their festivals like Ka Chad Pastieh, the men also carry a sword (Ka wait bad ka stieh). Notably, during the Chad Sukra festival, they also wear a beautiful silk turban which is also worn by male dancers, adding to the festive spectacle.
Jaintia men traditionally wear the ‘boh kynrein,’ which consists of a drape-like cloth. The boh kynrein is wrapped around the waist. It is often paired with a shirt and coat, adding a layer of elegance to the ensemble. During the harvest and post-harvest season, the men of the Jaintia tribe cover their heads with a checkered garment known as a spong. At the time of festivals, occasions or events, the women contrast it with beautiful outfits which include a velvet blouse in red colour, an ankle-length muksa and thohsaru or ryndia, and gold and silver ornaments.
People from Jaintia Community perform the Lahoo dance, a folk dance from Meghalaya. Image Source: Wikimedia Commons
Accessories are essential for enriching the Jaintia traditional attire, with women using beaded necklaces, earrings, and bracelets crafted from materials like gold, beads, shells, and metals. Men can choose traditional headgear and belts to match their outfits. A significant adornment in Meghalaya's Khasi and Jaintia tribes is the ‘Paila’, a string of red and gold threaded beads worn on special occasions. Both men and women wear these distinctive beads, making the Paila a renowned tribal jewellery piece in Meghalaya. Initially, the red beads were crafted from original coral. However, they have since transitioned to being primarily composed of 'Mawpleit,' a type of marble-like stone, which is subsequently coated in red paint. These beads are threaded using Muga silk thread. Due to the unavailability of coral in Meghalaya, it was procured from Bhutan and Kolkata. In contrast, the golden-hued beads are created using real gold. Nevertheless, the widely manufactured Pailas consist of lac beads coated with a layer of gold.
The traditional attire of the Jaintia community holds deep significance, reflecting their values, history, and aspirations. This attire intricately weaves together patterns, colours, and designs that tell stories from their folklore, while also symbolizing their strong connection to nature and spirituality. In a rapidly changing world, preserving traditional attire is a challenge faced by many indigenous communities. The Jaintia people, too, are working to ensure that their cultural heritage remains intact. Efforts are being made by individuals, community groups, and organizations to promote and sustain traditional practices, including clothing.
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