Introduction ​

Braids, a timeless and intricate hairstyle, have been worn by women for centuries in the Indian subcontinent. ​

From ancient times to the present day, the practice of braiding hair has evolved, reflecting the enduring beauty of this traditional hairstyle. ​

Let’s delve into the history of braids in India, exploring their historical roots, evolution, and enduring relevance today. ​

What is a Braid? ​

A braid is a complex hairstyle formed by intertwining three or more strands of hair. It involves weaving together sections of hair to create a plaited pattern.

There are different types of braids, including simple three-strand braids, four-stranded braids, hair divided into two sections, braided separately and then tied together in the end and many more.​

Mention in the Vedas​

Braids have been a significant hairstyle for women in the Indian subcontinent for centuries. The history of braids can be traced back to the Vedic period (1500-600 BCE).​

The Vedas describe the various hairstyles worn by women during this era, with women styling their hair in a stuka, which translates to braided hair. The Rigveda specifically mentions terms like prthu-stuka and vishita-stuka, referring to broad and loosened braids.

The example from Bharhut

The earliest known visual evidence of braids can be dated back to the ancient Buddhist site of Bharhut. This site, located in present day Madhya Pradesh, can be dated to the Mauryan-Shunga period (320-73 BCE).​

This panel from Bharhut shows a woman in the foreground, wearing an elaborate hairstyle known as praveni, where the hair is braided into two braids and joined together at the end. ​​

Shalabhanjika from Delhi

Another example from this period is a fragment of a shalabhanjika dating back to the 2nd century BCE, discovered in Delhi. The term shalabhanjika refers to the sculpture of a woman pulling down a branch of the shala tree.

The shalabhanjika is depicted wearing her long hair in a plait, over her shoulder. This hairstyle was known as ekaveni, where the hair was parted and braided in a single plait. ​

Panel from Amaravati

The ancient site of Amaravati, located in present day Andhra Pradesh offes examples of women in various hairstyles. This site is dated back to the Satavahana period (mid-1st century BCE-3rd century CE).​

One of the common hairstyles worn by women was long plaited hair, sometimes ornamented with jewelled strips and gucchas (tassels) at the ends. This hairstyle was known as praveni.

Example from the Kushana Period

Sculptures and plaques from the Kushana period (1st-3rd century CE) also depict women in braids.

For instance, a plaque from Kausambi, Uttar Pradesh, shows a male figure holding a woman, her hair neatly braided into a veni (braid), and brought to the front over her shoulder.

Example from Nagarjunakonda

Another set of sculptural evidence comes from the site of Nagarjunakonda, located in Andhra Pradesh. This site dates back to the Ikshvaku period (3rd-4th century CE).

The panels at Nagarjunakonda depict women with various hairstyles, including plaited hair that extended down to the hips, often adorned with flowers and other ornaments.

Textual Evidence from the Gupta Period

Kalidasa, the 5th-century Sanskrit poet, mentions that women grew long hair, which they combed, parted and knitted in long tresses. He also says that women decorated their hair with flowers, pearls, and gems.

In Raghuvamsa, Kalidasa compared the veni (braid) of a woman to the stream of the river Yamuna with golden flamingos fluttering on its surface in continuous streaks suggesting the plaits of mother earth bedecked with golden strips.

Sculpture from the Early Medieval Period

The braid continued to be a popular hairstyle among women during the Early Medieval period (7th-13th century CE) in India.

For instance, the sculpture of Yamuna features a female attendant, holding an umbrella over the figure of Yamuna. The attendant is depicted with long braided hair reaching below her waist.

Sculpture from the Bhu Varaha Swamy temple​

The Bhu Varaha Swamy temple, located at Srimushnam, Tamil Nadu, dates back to the 10th century CE. Constructed in the Dravidian style of architecture, the temple is dedicated to Varaha (Bhu Varaha Swamy), the boar-avatar of the god Vishnu and his consort Lakshmi.

Here, a sculpture of a woman is seen wearing a long braid, embellished with hair ornaments.

Frescos from the Vijayanagara Empire

The Vijayanagara Empire, dated from 1336-1565 CE, provides further examples of the popularity of braids in Peninsular India.

The frescos on the ceiling of the Natya Mandapa (the performance pavilion) in the Veerabhadra Temple, Andhra Pradesh, depicts women with long braided hair. ​

Example from the Jalakandeswarar Temple

Another example from the Vijayanagara period is the Jalakandeswarar Temple of Lord Shiva, located in Vellore, Tamil Nadu. The construction of the temple began in the 13th century CE and additions were made by the Nayaka rulers in the 16th century CE.

In the mandapa (pavilion) of the temple, a sculpture of a female is depicted with a braid.

Jain Miniature Painting

In northern India, braids continued to be a favored hairstyle among women, evidence of which is observed in Jain miniature paintings from Gujarat.

In the 15th century folio from Kalpasutra, a charioteer is seen displaying his archery skills, while a courtesan named Kosa is seen dancing. She is depicted in a braid, decorated with various jewels and flowers.

Painting depicting a scene from Bhagavata Purana

The 16th-century painting depicting a scene from the Bhagavata Purana illustrates the popularity of plaits among women during that period.

The painting depicts Krishna defeating Trinavarta, the demon whirlwind. In the lower section Krishna is seen standing before his mother and gopis (female cowherds) with braided hair adorned with tassels.

A Ragamala Painting

Braids were also commonly depicted in the Ragamala paintings, which served as a compendium of various musical modes and the associated emotions.

Bhairavi Ragini, a part of the Ragamala series is commonly represented by a young heroine (nayika) worshipping at a temple dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The painting dated to 1610-1620 CE portrays a woman and her female attendant both sporting braids worshipping a Siva-linga.

18th century PaintingS

Various schools of painting, which developed during the 18th-19th centuries, provide further examples of hairstyles of the period.

The painting from the late 18th century is part of the Deccan school of miniature paintings. In this painting, the figures can each be seen with a single plait. The plaits can be observed in a flying position as the women play phukri (two girls holding hands and twirling each other in a circle). ​

Examples from the Colonial Period

Another example from the colonial period can be observed in a 19th-century painting by Hermann Linde, a German painter. ​

In the painting, a girl is depicted in a sari with her hair tied into a braid. Additionally, her hair is adorned with a hair ornament positioned at the top of her head.​

Examples from the Colonial Period

Photographs from the 19th and 20th centuries offer insights into the hairstyles of men and women showing western and indigenous elements.

For instance, the 1935 photograph of Maharani Brinda Devi of Kapurthala, with her three daughters. In this image, two of the daughters are seen wearing their hair parted on the side, plaited in braids, and tied at the ends with ribbons.

Braids in Indian Cinema

Indian cinema offers intriguing insights about the diverse hairstyles prevalent during an era. Actresses showcased a range of hairstyles, including braids, which popularized diverse braiding styles in India.

20th-century actors like Nargis and Sulochana were often seen sporting plaited hair, occasionally twisted atop their heads to create intricate hairstyles. ​

Braids- part of Everyday Life of Women

Today, braids continue to be an important hairstyle of the Indian woman.

This hairstyle is a part of the everyday life of women in India. It remains a practical and stylish choice for women across diverse age groups and backgrounds.

Braids- part of Festivities and Celebrations

The tradition of braiding the hair is carried forward by many women in India. Braids are not only a part of the daily lives of women but are also commonly worn during festivities and celebrations.

Women in south India are often observed with braided hair, decorated with flowers and jewels during traditional ceremonies.

From Ancient to Modern Times

Therefore, over the centuries, braids have evolved with different variations, from the traditional and elaborate ancient styles to the more practical and stylish versions of the present day.

In time, braids have adapted to changing trends in hairstyling while maintaining their traditional essence.

Conclusion

Braids stand as a testament to the resilience of cultural heritage, which has evolved gracefully with time. This hairstyle continues to embellish the lives of women across the diverse landscapes of India.

Braids show the enduring legacy of tradition and the timeless grace of a hairstyle.