Bhopal

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INTRODUCTION

Famously known as the City of Lakes, Bhopal is the capital city of Madhya Pradesh.
The city’s architectural legacy and vibrant culture are a testament to the coexistence of tradition and modernity. Its diverse history encompasses the reign of powerful monarchs, especially the female rulers of the 19th and 20th centuries, who have left an indelible mark on Bhopal’s identity. For both settlers and visitors, Bhopal's beauty extends beyond its lakes and encompasses verdant hills, historic forts, and well-maintained gardens.

HISTORY

The history of Bhopal as an independent state begins from the time of Paramara Rajputs. Between the 7th to 11th centuries they emerged as an influential ruling dynasty over the Malwa region. Raja Bhoja, who founded Bhopal during the 11th century, is considered one of the most illustrious rulers of the Paramara dynasty. After his death, the city became a battlefield between warlords vying for power in the region before the Gonds established their control over the area. By the early 18th century, Bhopal was taken over by the Afghans and their descendants continued to rule the city for two centuries till India became an independent country.

Click below to read more about the interesting history of the city.

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History of Bhopal

7th century CEBhopal became a part of the Paramara dynasty.
11th century CE Raja Bhoja founded Bhopal and Bhojtal (the lake which gave Bhopal its name) was constructed.
12th century CEAfter Raja Bhoja’s death, Bhopal became a battleground between warlords vying for power.
13th - 14th century CE Bhopal was ruled by local warlords.
15th - 18th century CE The Gonds ruled the region.
1710s Bhopal and the neighbouring region witnessed the rise of Afghan warrior Dost Muhammad Khan. He established his fort and capital in Islamnagar, present-day Jagdishpur.
1720s Rani Kamlapati faced rivalries after the death of her husband, Nizam Shah. In a strategic move to defeat her enemies, she formed an alliance with Dost Muhammad Khan. As a reward, Bhopal was gifted to Dost Muhammad Khan.
c.1723 After Rani Kamlapati’s death, Dost Muhammad Khan conquered the remaining parts of her kingdom, laying the foundation of Afghan rule in Bhopal. He built the Fatehgarh Fort.
c. 1725 The Nizam of Hyderabad attacked Bhopal, and as a truce, Dost Muhammad Khan surrendered one of his sons, Yar Muhammad Khan.
c. 1728 Dost Muhammad Khan died, and Yar Muhammad Khan, backed by the Nizam’s forces, took control over Bhopal.
c. 1730Yar Muhammad Khan married Mamola Bai, a Rajput believed to be Bhopal’s first female de facto ruler.
1742 After Yar Muhammad Khan’s death, Bhopal was taken over by his son, Faiz Muhammad Khan.
c.1776 The capital shifted from Islamnagar to Bhopal.
1778 Hayat Muhammad Khan, Faiz Muhammad Khan’s brother, assumed the throne.
1808Ghaus Muhammad Khan retired to Raisen. The reign of Bhopal was then taken over by Wazir Muhammad Khan.
1812 Joint forces of Gwalior, Nagpur, and Marathas attempted to capture Bhopal.
1813 They were expelled by Wazir Muhammad Khan.
1816 Wazir Muhammad Khan is succeeded by his son, Nazar Muhammad Khan, as the Nawab of Bhopal.
1817Nawab Nazar Muhammad Khan married Qudsia (Gauhar) Begum.
1818Bhopal signed a treaty with the British East India Company and became a sovereign princely state.
1819 Qudsia Begum became the Regent of Bhopal after the death of Nawab Nazar Muhammad Khan.
1835 Qudsia Begums’s daughter, Sikandar Begum, married Jahangir Muhammad Khan.
1837 Jahangir Khan was anointed the Nawab against Qudsia Begum’s wishes.
1846 After the death of her husband, Sikandar Begum was declared Regent for her seven year old daughter Shah Jahan.
1855 Female rulers of Bhopal were recognised by the colonial government as sovereigns. They adopted the title of ‘Nawab’.
1860 Sikandar Begum was officially appointed as the Nawab of Bhopal.
1861 The first Imperial Durbar was held in honour of the Begum of Bhopal in Jabalpur.
1862 Bhopal became one of the first princely states to replace Farsi with Urdu as the official court language.
1868 Nawab Sikandar Begum died, and Shah Jahan was crowned the Nawab of Bhopal.
1881 Qudsia Begum died at the age of 82.
1884The first steam engine was established in Bhopal.
1901 Nawab Shah Jahan Begum died, and Sultan Jahan Begum was crowned the Nawab of Bhopal.
1914 Nawab Sultan Jahan Begum was appointed the President of All India Muslim Ladies Conference.
1918 All India Muslim Ladies Conference took place in Bhopal.
1926Nawab Sultan Jahan Begum abdicated the throne, and her son, Hamidullah Khan was crowned as the Nawab.
1928 Abida Sultan was declared the heir apparent of Bhopal.
1930 Sultan Jahan Begum passed away.
1947 Nawab Hamidullah Khan signed an agreement with the Indian government.
1949 Bhopal signed the Instrument of Accession and merged with the Indian Union.
1956 Bhopal became the capital of the newly formed state of Madhya Pradesh.

CITY TALES

The history and culture of Bhopal can be seen in the city’s historic monuments, natural heritage and living traditions across the streets. Click on the link below to explore the legacy of different dynasties:

Jumerati Gate

On a visit to the old city area of Bhopal, one might come across the remains of this gateway. This arched doorway dates back to the 18th century. It is the only surviving evidence of the first walled city, established by Dost Mohammad Khan, the first Afghan ruler of Bhopal. Each gate was designed to fortify his settlement and some were named after the days of the week, like Peer (Monday), Mangalwara (Tuesday), Budhwara (Wednesday), Jumerati (Thursday), and Itwara (Sunday). These gates were constructed along the walls of Fatehgarh Fort and extended to the boundaries of Upper Lake. Presently, the Jumerati Gate is the only surviving gate, making it one of the oldest gates of the city.

Gond Art

This art form is associated with the Gonds, one of the largest tribes in India. The word Gond is derived from the Dravidian word kond which translates to green mountains. True to their name, the tribe’s culture is deeply associated with nature and its conservation. Gond art is not merely a form of visual expression but a cultural bridge that connects the Gond tribe to their roots. For centuries, the art form has been used to ward off evil forces and every painting depicts a myth associated with nature, spirituality, and the community. These intricate designs were drawn on mud walls. In the 1980s, Jangarh Singh Shyam, a member of the Gond community, bridged the gap between the traditional practices of the Gond tribe and the contemporary art world by translating them on paper.

Pattiyabazi

Every morning and evening, the tea stalls encircling Iqbal Maidan transform into bustling centres of conversation. Locally, this routine is called Pattiyabazi. The term pattiya is used for stone slabs. Here, the suffix bazi refers to daily conversations related to political and social affairs.
Pattiyas or stone slabs were usually placed outside traditional houses and tea stalls as benches. The tradition of pattiyabazi dates back to the time of the Nawabs. In the old streets of Bhopal, pattiyabazi has been a lively morning and evening tradition for discussions on political and daily issues.

Thappa Thussi Jewellery

The city of Bhopal is associated with a unique process of jewellery making, called Thappa Thussi. The term ‘thappa’ refers to stamping and ‘thussi’ means stuffing. This handicraft involved the use of gold, silver, and copper. These metals were meticulously stamped and stuffed together into thin sheets. Various intricate designs, like floral patterns, were etched on them to further beautify the jewellery. At present, the knowledge of thappa thussi only remains with a handful of individuals in the city’s jewellery hub, Sarafa Bazaar. Paricham (bracelet), guluband (choker), ponchi (bracelet), and baldar kada (bangles) are some of the articles prepared in this style. The thappa thussi is a time-honoured craft that embodies the essence of Bhopal's identity and regal past.

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KEY

Click on the pins to navigate through the city

Built Heritage

Streets and Bazaars

Living Traditions

Natural Heritage

People/Personalities/Institutions

Ahmedabad Walled City Complex
Qasr-e-Sultani Palace
Rahat Manzil
Flagstaff House
Noor-us-Sabah Palace

The Walled City of Ahmedabad was built during the reign of Nawab Sultan Jahan Begum in the early 20th century. It was constructed to remember her deceased husband, Ahmad Ali Khan Bahadur. This walled city was located in the area of Tekri Maulvee Zai-ud-din which included Sultan Jahan Begum’s private residence, the Qasr e-Sultani Palace or Ahmedabad Palace. Along with the monarch, various members of the royal family and officials also shifted here. It included the Flag Staff House, Rahat Manzil and the Noor-us-Sabah Palace. At present, the remains of Ahmedabad's walled city can be located in the locality of Kohefiza.

In 1906, Nawab Sultan Jahan Begum built Qasr-e-Sultani Palace, also known as the Ahmedabad Palace, as her residence. It is located inside the Walled City of Ahmedabad established by Sultan Jahan during the early 20th century. The architecture of the Qasr-e-Sultani Palace is a blend of Colonial, Italian and Classical Greek styles. It is the first architectural marvel of Bhopal constructed using Italian marble. Nawab Sultan Jahan Begum added various technological advances to this structure; it was the first palace of the city to entirely operate on electricity and also had the first water pump. The Qasr-e-Sultani Palace is also called Garden Palace after its premises were beautified by a garden named Zie-up-Abser.

During the 20th century, the premises of Qasr-e-Sultani Palace were expanded to include Rahat Manzil. In 1909, an official gathering was organised in this building for Lady and Lord Minto (Viceroy of India 1905 - 1910). The wedding festivities of Nawab Sultan Jahan Begum’s grandchildren, Birjis Jahan Begum and Mohammad Habibullah Khan, were held here. During the freedom struggle, in 1929 Mahatma Gandhi visited Bhopal and stayed at the Rahat Manzil.

Constructed during the 20th century, the Flag Staff House was an important structure within the Walled City of Ahmedabad. The flag of the princely state of Bhopal was hoisted there. The structure also served as a guest house for the English visitors of the Nawab. The Flag Staff House was eventually passed down to Sajida Sultan, the daughter of the last nawab of Bhopal, Hamidullah Khan.

The construction of Noor-us-Sabah Palace was initiated by Nawab Sultan Jahan Begum within the confines of the Walled City of Ahmedabad. During the 1920s it was completed by Hamidullah Khan who gifted it to his daughter, Abida Sultan. The palace is situated on Shamla Hill and was designed in Indo-Saracenic style. Currently, it is used as a heritage hotel.

Taj Mahal Complex
Taj-ul-Masjid
Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal complex is located within the Walled City of Shahjahanabad, built by Nawab Shah Jahan Begum during the late 19th century. The city was laid around three water bodies- Motia Talab, Noor Mahal Talab, and Munshi Hussain Talab.

The Walled City of Shahjahanabad had several public institutions like schools, libraries, and serais or rest houses. It also includes the Taj Mahal Palace and one of central India’s largest mosques, the Taj-ul-Masjid.

One of the largest mosques in central India, the Taj-ul-Masjid was built by Nawab Shah Jahan Begum in the late 19th century. Literally meaning, “Crown among Mosques”, this centre of worship was constructed inside the Walled City of Shahjahanabad.

The Taj-ul-Masjid was under construction in 1901, when Shah Jahan Begum, its patron died. It was completed by her successor Nawab Sultan Jahan Begum. Taj-ul-Masjid was designed by Muhammad Raushan, a draftsman from Delhi. However, changing rulers and paucity of funds posed obstacles and delayed the construction of the mosque. The Taj-ul-Masjid was completed in the 1970s. It was designed in the form of an idgah, an open ground where prayers are read during Eid. Constructed at the highest elevation in the region, the mosque is believed to be one of the grandest structures of its kind in the entire Subcontinent. A separate section for women (called zenana), a library for scholars and a dormitory are also included in its layout. Taj-ul-Masjid was built on the banks of the Motia Talab, which functioned as the site for ablution. Interestingly, the lake allowed 10,000 people to perform ablution at the same time.

The Taj Mahal Palace was built by Nawab Shah Jahan Begum during the late 19th century. It is believed that it took around a decade for the structure to be completed.

The architecture of the Taj Mahal was inspired by the characteristics of the Mughal palaces in Delhi which included spacious halls, open courtyards, and broad doorways. Shah Jahan Begum made this palace her permanent residence towards the end of her life. She resided here with her granddaughter Bilkis Jahan Begum. Both of them saw the last days of their lives inside this palace. Over the years, the condition of the palace has deteriorated and the building remains in an unkempt state.

Fatehgarh Fort complex
Fatehgarh Fort
Dhai Seedhi ki Masjid

The Fatehgarh Fort complex dates back to the 18th century. Its establishment marked the beginning of the princely state of Bhopal. The Fatehgarh Fort built by Dost Muhammad Khan during the 1720s and his tomb are important structures in this complex. The Dhai Seedhi ki Masjid, believed to be one of India’s smallest mosques is located adjacent to the fort. Today, the complex also encompasses the Gandhi Medical College and Hamidia Hospital.

The Fatehgarh Fort was built by Dost Muhammad Khan during the 1720s. He was an Afghan soldier known as the founder of the princely state of Bhopal. This fort was constructed alongside the Talab-i-Kalan or Bada Talab (i.e. Upper Lake). It is said that Dost Muhammad Khan conceived the idea of the Fort in his dream. It was named after his wife, Fateh Begum. Several members of the royal family, such as Dost Muhammad and his wife, Fateh Bibi were buried in the fort complex. Some of the tombs consist of arched pillars, stylized brackets, and tall minarets.

The Fatehgarh Fort is mentioned in Nawab Shah Jahan Begum’s book Taj-ul Ikbal Tarikh Bhopal as a residence of some of the nawabs of Bhopal. Morid Muhammad Khan, a minister of the fourth nawab- Hayat Muhammad Khan conducted a coup against the nawab. On being caught, Morid Khan sought refuge in the Fatehgarh Fort, but was eventually captured. In the latter part of the 18th century, the fort served as the residence of Moti Begum, Hayat Muhammad Khan’s sister. Currently, the Fatehgarh Fort is situated near the Iqbal Maidan. The present structure of the fort lies in complete ruins.

The Dhai Seedhi ki Masjid literally translates to a mosque made up of two and a half stairs. It was built by Dost Muhammad Khan during the 1720s. The Dhai Seedhi ki Masjid is believed to be one of the smallest mosques in India. It is located within the Fatehgarh Fort complex beside the tomb of Dost Muhammad Khan. The two-and-a-half steps staircase leads to the prayer hall. Interestingly, the city of Bhopal consists of one of the biggest (i.e. Taj-ul-Masjid) and the smallest mosques in the country.

Gandhi Medical College Complex
Gandhi Medical College
Hamidia Hospital

The Gandhi Medical College complex was built during the 20th century. It is situated near the Fatehgarh Fort area, built by the founder of Bhopal, Dost Muhammad Khan. At present, the complex comprises of Gandhi Medical College and Hamidia Hospital. The two buildings were initially located elsewhere, but they were shifted to this location during the middle of the 20th century.

In 1955, the Millennium Gandhi Medical College was inaugurated in Shamla Hills. In 1963, it was relocated near the Fatehgarh Fort complex, and a bigger campus was established. The new campus was inaugurated by Jawaharlal Nehru, independent India’s first Prime Minister. Over the years, this institution has continued to function as a prominent centre for medical education, research, and healthcare. In 1977, the Gandhi Medical College became an autonomous college under the state government of Madhya Pradesh.

The Hamidia Hospital was the erstwhile Prince of Wales King Edwards Memorial Hospital for Men. It was established around 1920 in the Kotwali area of Bhopal. This hospital is among the oldest institutions to follow the modern medical system in the city. In 1928, it was renamed Hamidia Hospital after the then-nawab of Bhopal, Hamidullah Khan. The hospital building is believed to have been designed by Sir Samuel Swinton Jacob, also the chief engineer of the princely state of Jaipur. The structure was built in red sandstone and comprised a clock tower, jharokhas (windows), pavilions, and decorated pillars.

In the 1940s, Hamidia Hospital was relocated to its present location, i.e. within the Fatehgarh Fort complex. During its inception, it had 25 beds. Over the next few decades, the hospital premises expanded and today it can treat thousands of people. This medical organisation played a significant role in treating the victims of the Bhopal Gas tragedy (1984). Cardiology, dentistry, gynaecology & obstetrics, psychiatry, and orthopaedics are some of its specialised wards. To uplift its services, the hospital and its administration continue to upgrade and reform.

Food
Filfora
Poha Jalebi
Bhopali Rezala

Bhopal is a vibrant melting pot of cultures, customs, and cuisines. The city's rich culinary tradition traces its roots to the kitchens of the royal family. Today, some of the royal recipes have become a significant part of the Bhopali Cuisine. From the subtly spiced filfora to the vibrant green rezala and the unique poha jalebi, Bhopal's culinary treasures reveal a delightful tapestry of flavours. As a whole, it is an intriguing fusion of flavours, featuring lighter gravies and mild spices.

Filfora is a culinary masterpiece associated with the royal kitchen of Bhopal. It embodies the city’s gastronomical legacy and the craftsmanship of its chefs. The origin of this dish can be traced to royal hunting expeditions. It was devised as a less time-consuming recipe to cook game meat. The dish comprises meat slivers tenderised with a wooden mallet. It was then slowly cooked on a hot stone with minimal seasonings like ginger, garlic, dry red chillies, and salt. Skilled butchers and chefs maintained the right meat-to-fat ratio which was important to obtain moist and flavourful meat with minimal use of oil.

Over the years, filfora gained popularity not just due to its association with royalty but also in the kitchens of the common people. It is now served with additional ingredients such as coriander, green chillies, mint, and yoghurt. While the dish has evolved to suit changing tastes and ingredient availability, its essence remains consistent. Present-day variations also include ingredients like tomatoes and papaya extract. Filfora continues to embody culinary innovations and values of a bygone era.

The iconic Poha-Jalebi, an amalgamation of sweet and savoury, is one of Bhopal’s beloved breakfast ensembles. Poha is a dish prepared with light and fluffy rice flakes, delicately cooked with an array of spices and generously topped with crunchy sev (fried gram flour noodles). Jalebi is a popular Indian sweet prepared from wheat flour batter and fried in a coiled or pretzel-like shape. After frying, the jalebis are soaked in sugar syrup which gives them a sweet and sticky texture. The addition of sweet and crispy jalebi perfectly complements this savoury delight.

In Bhopal, unlike other North Indian cities, poha and jalebi are consumed together. The tangy poha with its delightful sev garnish alongside the sweet and crispy jalebis create a symphony of flavours. For locals and visitors alike, this iconic combination is a testament to its rich flavours and time-honoured traditions.

The origins of rezala can be traced back to the late 19th century when Nawab Wajid Ali Shah introduced Awadhi cuisine to Bengal. Following the Uprising of 1857, he recreated a version of Lucknow in Kolkata. This migration brought with it various recipes from Lucknow’s royal kitchen and rezala was one of them. It is a mildly spiced yoghurt-based curry that is cooked with cashews and poppy seeds. Later on, this recipe was adopted by the royal kitchen of Bhopal with some variations.

Bhopali rezala is associated with Jashn-e-Hariyali i.e. festivities during the monsoon season. In contrast to its Bengali counterpart, Bhopali rezala is prepared with coriander which provides a different taste and a light green colour. Its recipe was further enhanced by Nawab Shah Jahan Begum with additions like fried onions and turmeric.

CITY CAPSULE

Glimpses of Bhopal

Partners

IIT Bombay

Indian Institute of Technology Bombay

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INTRODUCTION

HISTORY

History of Bhopal

CITY TALES

CITY TALES

Jumerati Gate

Gond Art

Pattiyabazi

Thappa Thussi Jewellery

KEY

×Shaukat Mahal

Shaukat Mahal

×Ahmedabad Walled City Complex

Ahmedabad Walled City Complex

×Kushabhau Thakre Hall

Kushabhau Thakre Hall

×Gauhar Mahal

Gauhar Mahal

×Jama Masjid

Jama Masjid

×Taj Mahal Complex

Taj Mahal Complex

×Jehan Numa Palace

Jehan Numa Palace

×Fatehgarh Fort Complex

Fatehgarh Fort Complex

×Moti Masjid

Moti Masjid

×Raj Bhawan

Raj Bhawan

× Union Carbide India Limited (UCIL)

Union Carbide India Limited (UCIL)

×Sadar Manzil

Sadar Manzil

×Benazir Palace

Benazir Palace

×Shankar Dayal Sharma

Shankar Dayal Sharma

×Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya

Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya

× Tribal Museum

Tribal Museum

×Barkatullah Bhopali

Barkatullah Bhopali

×Barkatullah University

Barkatullah University

×Gandhi Medical College Complex

Gandhi Medical College Complex

×Maulana Azad Central Library

Maulana Azad Central Library

×Government Hamidia Arts & Commerce College

Government Hamidia Arts & Commerce College

×Raja Bhoja

Raja Bhoja

×Mamola Bai

Mamola Bai

×State Museum

State Museum

×Zari Zardozi

Zari Zardozi

×Bhopali Batua

Bhopali Batua

×Food

Food

×Van Vihar

Van Vihar

×Kaliyasot River

Kaliyasot River

×Iqbal Maidan

Iqbal Maidan

×Chowk Bazaar

Chowk Bazaar

×Iqbal Library

Iqbal Library

×Birla Museum

Birla Museum

×Rani Kamlapati

Rani Kamlapati