Situated in the fertile Indo-Gangetic plain of North India, the state of Uttar Pradesh has been a witness to Indian history from ancient times. What has emerged from this is a culture composite in nature and refined in spirit. These facets are reflected in all aspects, including the textile tradition. Chikankari, or the art of hand embroidery with simple cotton threads, is a tangible example of the Nazakat and Nafasat of Lucknow, the state capital. 

The faces behind this beautiful textile embellishment are those of women who stay in the city's old quarters and the neighbouring villages. Having learnt embroidery from the older women at home, they source work from local traders. Paid as per the difficulty level of the stitches and the amount of embroidery done, they earn about Rs. 2000 to 4000 per month. They work in homes in their spare time and see this as a source of additional income. 
The task is demanding on the eyes, and with advancing age, women make crochet laces used as embellishments for Chikankari material. Some women have also learnt to decorate Chikankari with Zardozi (Mukkaish, Aari, and beadwork). An emerging trend is that some women who started early have now employed other women and work on bulk orders. Also, the younger generation does embroidery along with pursuing formal education. The ever-growing popularity of this work and its foray into products for the niche market has ensured that the craft changes hands from one generation to the other. However, some workers would like their daughters to do otherwise. 
Many governmental and non-governmental initiatives are trying to connect women directly to buyers and modern designers to make their craft competitive in the market.