Ahmedabad: Textile Cards
Ahmedabad has been home to a vibrant tradition of textile making, ever since it was founded in the fifteenth century. Flowing silks, precious brocades, gold and silver threads, or zari, luxurious yards of dyed indigo, printed calico, and velvet, cotton- these are the craft traditions that add richness to Ahmedabad's heritage and history.
NEW CITY, NEW CRAFTS
Ahmedabad had the conditions and patronage that allowed creative traditions to flourish in the city.
The founder of Ahmedabad, Sultan Ahmed Shah I, encouraged craftsmen and weavers to come to his newly established city. These craftsmen then contributed to the textile production in the city.
Ahmedabad's craftspeople, and its proximity to trade routes contributed to the prosperity of the city.
A MEDIEVAL TRADE CENTRE
In the early 16th century, Gujarat was a leading centre for trade.Ahmedabad excelled in the manufacture of all kinds of textiles which were both exported and used locally. Fabrics like the Ashavali brocades of Ahmedabad were in great demand throughout the country. In fact, it was believed that no Ahmedabadi bride’s trousseau would be complete without an Amdavadi saree crafted out of this exquisite brocade.
Image courtesy Victoria Memorial Hall, Kolkata.
AN INFLUENTIAL INDUSTRY
The Ain-i-Akbari refers to Ahmedabad as a famous centre for brocade, velvets and silk.
The popular Ashavali brocades- known as kincobs were favourites among royalty. Produced in a small village called Ashabelo Tekro, the makers of these brocades were known for their skilled craftsmanship.
Interestingly, It is also said that these weavers from Gujarat migrated to Varanasi carrying with them the knowledge of textile weaving and beautiful motifs.
A NEW, BLUE COMMODITY
According to the Dutch East India Company export records, more than 60,000 kilos of Sarkhej Indigo was exported in the mid 17th century.
A ‘remarkable’ practice, noted by the European Traveller Tavenier, was the sifting of Indigo prior to its export to get rid of dust. Sifters were employed for this process and the dust was in turn sold within the country for dyeing purposes.
This dust was so minute and delicate that if an egg was to be left next to the sifter, by the end of the day the insides of the egg would turn blue!
Image courtesy Muzeart.
A GIFT FIT FOR ROYALTY
In the medieval period, textiles also became sought after products as gifts especially among royalty.
In 1645-55, when Ahmedabad was under Mughal control, a pavilion of embroidered velvet, interwoven with brocade, 43 gaj by 32 gaj had been prepared at Ahmedabad at a cost of Rs 50,000 and was erected on the occasion of Emperor Shah Jahan’s birthday.
This miniature painting shows Shah Jahan as a prince, being weighed against gold and luxurious silks, on the occasion of his birthday.
TEXTILES FOR NEW BEGINNINGS
In 1638 when Shah Jahan shifted his capital to Shahjahanabad and the Red Fort was inaugurated, a gorgeous canopy, specially prepared for the occasion in the royal factory at Ahmedabad measuring 70 gaj by 45 gaj and costing a lakh of rupees was raised by 3,000 active farrashes in the complex.
A GLOBAL COMMODITY
Textiles from Ahmedabad were well known even beyond the geographical contours of the Indian subcontinent.
Duarte Barbosa, a Portugese officer and writer wrote in the beginning of the sixteenth century that “wild tribesman of Malaya "did not consider their freedom secured until they had stored Ahmedabadi brocade that matched their height. This was the standard ransom for prisoners in war."
His book is the featured on the reverse of this card.
TRAVELLERS ON TEXTILES
European travellers who came to Ahmedabad were also impressed by the textile production in the city.
Apart from Jean Baptiste Tavernier, a 17th century European traveller whose words are on the reverse of this card, a German traveller,Mandelslo,wrote in 1638 that, “There is not in a manner any nation nor any merchandise in all Asia, which may not be had at Ahmedabad."
He also mentioned that great antiquities of gold, and silver brocades were made at Ahmedabad, besides satins and velvets of various colours and carpets on the ground, of gold, silk and yarn.
A NEW MANCHESTER
The British exported cotton produce and dyes from Ahmedabad for use as raw material in the textile industry back home.Some merchants then set up textile mills by importing the machinery from England.
Ahmedabad's first textile mill was thus established in 1861.
Today with the decline of patronage, traditional weavers have been compelled to leave their centuries old occupation and join these mills.
As Ahmedabad became a hub of textile production, it came to be known as the 'Manchester of India'.