Flavours from the Axomiya Akholghor

The Axomiya Akholghor (traditional Assamese kitchen) has churned out a myriad of earthy delicacies that reflect the ingenuity of the people of this ecologically rich land. Yet, Assamese cuisine is still a largely uncharted territory for people outside North-East India. The Assamese are often credited with having an “adventurous palate”, a notion which deters many (cautious) food lovers from trying out this wholesome cuisine. However, Assamese cuisine is not as removed from culinary traditions in other parts of India, as it is sometimes made out to be. At the same time, for a connoisseur of food, this cuisine has a lot of novelty to offer. The food of this land is a precious blend of the ordinary and the unique. 

A Cradle of Culture

Assam, located on the North Eastern part of the Indian subcontinent, has geographically been relatively isolated from the rest of the country. However, at the same time, Assam has historically been a conduit for percolation of people and ideas into the North-Eastern region from the rest of the Indian subcontinent. Assam featured as a significant entity in the political as well as cultural map of Ancient India. We find the mention of Kamarupa (a name for Ancient Assam) in the Allahabad Pillar Inscription of the Gupta emperor Samudragupta (4^th century CE).  Again, Pragjyotisha (another name for Ancient Assam) finds mention in the Natyasastra of Bharata Muni (early years of the 1^st millennium CE) as the region where the Odra-Magadhi tradition of dance flourished. Further, tribes and communities from various parts of South-East Asia have migrated and settled in this region over the centuries. The cuisine of Assam is characterised by this richness and diversity, and presents a wide array of dishes ranging from simple Dal-Sabzi-Bhat, familiar to most Indians, to exotic indigenous preparations like Leta Bhaja (silkworm larvae fry).

Asama: Uneven Topography and Unparalleled Beauty

The topography of Assam is reflected in its very name. One of the possible etymological origins of the term “Assam” is Asama which means uneven, and the rolling hills and lush valleys of the state reflect the name. The territorial boundaries of this geo-cultural entity have undergone many changes over time. Presently, the state of Assam is bounded by Arunachal Pradesh and Bhutan in the North, Nagaland and Manipur in the South-East, Tripura and Mizoram in the South, Meghalaya and Bangladesh in the South and South-West, and West Bengal in the East. The state has three primary physical formations: the Brahmaputra Valley (North), the Barak Valley (South), and the hilly regions of Karbi Anglong and Dima Hasao (South-Central). The Brahmaputra, flowing from East to West, has historically played a significant role in the socio-economic and political life of the region. The river, along with its tributaries and the numerous streams and rivulets that flow into it, water the floodplains of the Brahmaputra valley which contains the bulk of the agricultural land of the state. Assam receives moderate to heavy rainfall and the climate is tropical and humid. The state also possesses a significant forest cover including two world heritage sites: Kaziranga and Manas national parks.

The Quintessential Drink, Saah

A discussion of Assamese food would probably be incomplete without mentioning the signature beverage of this state, tea. For an Axomiya, a cup of strong saah (tea) is close to a soul-soothing elixir. Tea, here, is enjoyed with a variety of pithas(sweetmeats prepared out of rice flour, coconut and jaggery) and homemade snacks. The story of Assam Tea began in the 19^th century when Robert Bruce (a Scottish gentleman who worked for the East India Company) discovered that the Singphos, an indigenous community in Assam consumed a beverage called Fanap similar to the Chinese tea. The Singphos used to prepare tea by boiling fresh tea leaves in water.  The British, eager to shed their dependence on the Chinese for tea, set up large scale tea plantations in Assam. What followed is history. It is interesting to note that the typical Indian Chai, i.e., dried and processed tea leaves brewed with milk and sugar was introduced here at the behest of the British. Today, Assam Tea is globally recognised and it generates a significant amount of revenue for the state.

Rice, the Cornerstone of Diet and Economy

Assam boasts of a staggering variety of rice of which, Joha, Malbhog, Bora and Chokuwa are some of the main types. Rice has in fact played an important role in the vicissitudes of history of the region. The Ahoms who ruled over Assam for almost six hundred years introduced the Sali technique of rice cultivation, i.e., a process in which rice is initially planted on a small bed of soil and then transplanted to the main field. The rice fields have to be partially submerged in water for this process of farming and hence the method is also known as wet rice farming. In comparison to the older Ahu technique (which did not require standing water), the Sali method of cultivation has a significantly higher yield. It has been argued by some historians that this growth in production and the resultant surplus brought about by the Sali method was highly instrumental in the building of the Ahom state.

Traditionally, rice has been a part of all three meals of the day including breakfast. It is only in the last couple of decades that breakfast items popular in other parts of India such as Paranthas, Puris, Dosas, Poha etc. have appeared on the menu of the region. Traditional breakfast items include a variety of Jolpans – flattened, puffed or boiled sticky rice mixed with milk and jaggery. Rice is also made into quick and nutritious preparations such as Poita Bhat, i.e., rice kept in water overnight and relished with mustard oil, salt, pickle and roasted fish. Often, rice is mashed with ripe bananas, and then mixed with milk to be enjoyed as a quick meal. Assam is home to delightful varieties of bananas such as Malbhog, Baratmani, Chenichompa, Jahaji and Bhim Kol. Aloo-Pitika-Bhat, i.e., steamed rice along with mashed potatoes, mustard oil and salt, is also considered a simple yet filling meal. For farmers gearing up for an arduous day on the field, office-goers with a long day ahead, and school children, having a full meal of rice in the morning is considered indispensable. However, traditional beer, prepared from fermented rice through different processes is an integral part of the cuisine for several indigenous communities of the state. It is celebrated as a mark of pride in every community.

The Defining Features of Assamese Cooking

Much like culture, Assamese food can act as a gateway to the culinary world of North East India. This is not to suggest that North East Indian cuisine is a homogenous entity or that Assamese cuisine alone can represent other North-Eastern culinary traditions. However, certain features such as the extensive use of leafy greens and herbs, use of fermented foods, alkaline solutions, boiled foods, and stewed and brothy curries are common to this region in general. A regular Assamese meal composed of rice and dal, with a side of lightly fried and sauteed vegetables and (often) a fish or a meat stew, would seem at first glance, like any other thali from Eastern India. However, traditional Assamese dishes are characterized by a distinctive flavour that comes from the use of select spices, and local herbs and greens. A defining feature of this cuisine is that spices are not used overwhelmingly, i.e., rather than using a large variety of spices together, each dish exploits a few select spices for its flavour. Again, the spices are supposed to play only second fiddle to the vegetables or leafy greens used. Assamese cooking is also characterized by the minimal use of oil. Common seasonings and spices include ginger, garlic, green chillies, cumin, mustard seeds, black pepper and turmeric. The traditional base for cooking is mustard oil. Food is mostly sauteed, fried, stewed, steamed, roasted and boiled.

Versatility of Flavours: Khar, Tenga and Tita

Apart from the knowledge of cooking techniques and ingredients, the preparation and serving of food in Assam also involves traditional culinary wisdom linked to health and well-being, passed on from one generation to the next. A unique characteristic of Assamese cuisine is the presence of Khar (alkaline), Tenga (sour), and Tita (bitter) preparations. However, traditional kitchen-wisdom of the Assamese warns against having all three together as their gastronomic properties clash. Similarly, sour curries are never to be served in copper utensils, as sour food is believed to react with the metal to produce a harmful substance.

Khar is an alkaline liquid prepared with the ash produced by burning the stem of a banana tree or the peels of the Bhim Kol (a variety of banana), and its utility is similar to that of baking soda. Khar is a significant ingredient used in cooking many Assamese dishes. It is preferred for the earthy flavour that it imparts to dishes and also for its digestive properties. Khar preparations usually involve vegetables such as Omita (papaya) and Lau (gourd). The significance of Khar for the Assamese in fact transcends the world of food to seep into the realm of identity.

After Khar, Tenga is probably the second most common Assamese flavoring. The term tenga has a variety of (linked) connotations in Assamese. It could simply mean the property of being sour, a lemon, or a traditional sour curry. Tenga curries are prepared by using lemon juice, Thekera Tenga (a fruit similar to kokum) or tomatoes. A popular sour curry is Ou Tenga or curry prepared with elephant apple. Ou Tenga with Mati Maahor Dali (split black-gram dal) is another mouth-watering combination.

When fish is added to tenga it is called Masor Tenga. Steamed rice coupled with Masor Tenga is a much-loved combination of the region and finds a place in regular meals and festive occasions alike. Tita preparations usually involve neem leaves, Sewali Phul (a local variety of Jasmine) and Kerela (bitter gourd). Tita preparations are also considered beneficial for the stomach.

Xaak-Pasoli: The Prominence of Greens

The state of Assam is rich in flora, and fresh leafy greens, herbs and vegetables are an essential part of the diet. Vegetables and leafy greens are collectively termed as Xaak-Pasoli here. Commonly grown vegetables are Ronga Lau (pumpkin), Pani Lau (bottle gourd), Kumura (white gourd), Jika (ridge gourd), Bhol (sponge gourd), Alu (potato), Kosu (colocasia) and Bengena (brinjal). Xaak or leafy greens include Lai (mustard greens), Lofa (Chinese mellow), Paleng (spinach), Suka (sorrel), Khutora (green amaranth) and Morisa (red amaranth). Fiddlehead ferns or Dhekia Xaak are also widely consumed. Vegetables and leafy greens are usually tempered with mustard oil, ginger and garlic, and sauteed. A number of indigenous herbs with medicinal properties have traditionally been an important part of the diet such as Manimuni, Bhedailota, Narasingha and Mesendari. These herbs are usually ground to form a paste and prepared along with fish to create various lip-smacking delicacies.

Non-Vegetarian Fare

Assamese society is relatively flexible in terms of socio-religious dietary restrictions. Non-vegetarian food is consumed across social groups and communities and mostly includes fish, fowl and mutton. Fish is almost a regular component of meals of the region. Assam is dotted with both small and large water-bodies and fish is available aplenty. Local varieties of fish include Rou, Borali,Ilish, Bhokua, Goroi, Ari, Pabho, Puthi, Kholihona, Magur, Kawoi,  etc. Fish is simply fried or added to a variety of curries along with seasonal vegetables. Some delectable traditional Assamese fish delicacies are Khorisa Diya Mas (fish prepared with fresh bamboo shoot), Patot Diya Xoru Mas (small fish steamed in banana leaf), Maas Pura (smoked fish) and Til Diya Mas (fish prepared with sesame seed paste). The fish head is used in cooking dishes like  Posola (prepared with banana stem and fish head) and Muri Ghonto (prepared with rice and fish head). 

Community feasts are considered incomplete without non-vegetarian dishes. Pigeon meat prepared with Koldil (banana flower) and duck prepared with Kumura (ash gourd) are considered as delicacies fit for guests. Serving mutton has traditionally been considered as a marker of affluence and good hospitality. Meat is occasionally served with pulao. Pork prepared with Lai Xaak and fermented bamboo shoots is also relished in the region. The cuisine of the indigenous communities of the state also includes unique delicacies like Amroli Paruar Tup Bhaja (red ant egg fry) and Leta Bhaji (silkworm larvae fry). The Bodos, an important indigenous community of Assam, use spicy accompaniments to meals such as Nakha or fermented fish chutney. Pitang Oying or chicken prepared in a rice powder gravy is a delicacy of the Mising community.

Tamul-Paan: A Symbol of Regard and Affinity

Last but not the least, an indispensable accompaniment to a traditional Assamese meal is Tamul-Paan (betel leaf and areca nut). However, Tamul-Paan in Assam is much more than a simple closure to a meal. In Assamese culture, it is held as a mark of respect and acceptance. Ritual offerings to Gods, gifts for elders and even agreements and proposals are always customarily accompanied by a pair of Tamul-Paan. It is also customary to offer Tamul-Paan to guests. Areca nut and betel leaf have also been important commodities of trade and commerce in the region since ancient times.

During the last couple of decades, Assamese food has slowly, but steadily, managed to register its presence beyond the confines of the state. Principal metropolitan cities of India now have modest and affordable joints serving Assamese food. These joints cater to the nostalgia of the Assamese who often migrate to these cities in search of employment and educational opportunities. They also offer a taste, quite literally, of this unexplored and underrated cuisine to the still uninitiated. However, to truly experience and indulge in the delights of this incredibly unique cuisine a visit to this beautiful state is a must.